Build a Predator-Proof Hoop Coop
The Hoop Coop is a homesteading trend to turn cattle panels into a budget-friendly chicken coop, often used for raising meat birds on pasture since the coop can be easily dragged to fresh grass once or twice a day. However, building a coop that’s easy to move, AND still predator proof, can be a challenge. The easier it is to move, the easier it is for predators to get your chickens. Most of the demonstrations I’ve seen online are not predator proof at all. Whether that be because they used chicken wire (which is only useful for keeping chickens in and not predators out), or have no reinforcement against digging predators considered in their design, they unfortunately leave much to be desired in regards to security.
What’s the point of even keeping chickens if your cheap coop is designed in such a way that a predator can easily kill your entire flock in a single night?
Some ideas to predator proof your hoop coop that will NOT work:
Bury the hardware cloth down 6 inches or more into the ground to stop digging predators. It will not be possible to move the coop to fresh grass.
Cover the bottom of the coop with a hardware cloth floor. While this would keep predators out, it is detrimental to the chickens. Their instinct is to scratch around in the dirt to find bugs, and they will injure their feet while doing so.
A predator-proofing option that WILL work but is not feasible for many homesteads or backyard chicken keepers is to get a livestock guardian dog.
So, what can you do to build a predator-proof hoop coop that is solid construction and moveable to fresh pasture, without relying on a livestock guardian dog to make up for a lack in security?
Add a removable, or hinge-able predator apron skirt!
An apron skirt is when you lay hardware cloth on the top of the earth’s surface surrounding your chicken coop. Online, you will find recommendations to skirt your hardware cloth anywhere from 6 inches to 18 inches. I personally opted for between 12-18 inches, and used landscape u-stakes to pin the hardware cloth down for increased security (and to prevent tripping — so much tripping!) I also overlapped the panels of hardware cloth several inches to ensure there are no breaches in security for a predator to exploit. The four corners were the hardest to overlap, so I used some of my hardware cloth trimmings from the rounded hoop coop roof to reinforce any gaps in the overlap.
Now that we have a plan for predator proofing, let’s start building.
Step One: Finalize the Plans
Each cattle panel measures 16 feet long by 50 inches wide (let’s round down and call it 4 feet for good measure). So, you can build a hoop coop that is one panel deep, or two, or three — depending on the coop size that is appropriate for your flock.
A good rule of thumb is to allow your chickens a minimum of 10 square feet per bird to decrease bullying behavior and disease caused by overcrowding.
To determine the width of your chicken coop, you must decide how much head-room you desire when entering your hoop coop for cleaning, topping off feeders and waterers, etc. A width of 8 feet will give you clearance of about 6 feet in the middle. A width of 10 feet will give you clearance of about 5 feet in the middle. As someone who is 5 foot 4, I was able to comfortably duck my head without breaking my back, and opted for a 10 foot wide hoop coop to maximize the square footage for my birds.
To determine the length (i.e. how many cattle panels you need), you will take the width you decided on and multiply it by 4 feet to get your square footage options, and pick the option that is appropriate for your flock size.
For example, for a hoop coop that is 8 feet wide, you can choose:
1 cattle panel — 1 x 4 feet: 8 feet width x 4 feet length = 32 square feet, which is appropriate for 3 chickens.
2 cattle panels — 2 x 4 feet: 8 feet width x 8 feet length = 64 square feet, which is appropriate for 6 chickens.
3 cattle panels — 3 x 4 feet: 8 feet width x 12 feet length = 96 square feet, which is appropriate for 9 chickens.
For a hoop coop that is 10 feet wide:
1 cattle panel — 1 x 4 feet: 10 feet width x 4 feet length = 40 square feet, which is appropriate for 4 chickens.
2 cattle panels — 2 x 4 feet: 10 feet width x 8 feet length = 80 square feet, which is appropriate for 8 chickens.
3 cattle panels — 3 x 4 feet: 10 feet width x 12 feet length = 120 square feet, which is appropriate for 12 chickens.
As you can see, the extra 2 feet in width can make a big difference in the square footage for each cattle panel added. I felt that the minimal loss in head clearance was well-worth the extra space for more birds. However, if you are much taller than me, that head space loss may be a non-negotiable for you, in which case opting for the 8 foot width is the right choice.
I would not recommend making a cattle panel that is less than 8 feet wide. As chickens grow, you will find that they become very dirty. This means that you will need to replace their water frequently, and clean out their poop more frequently (depending on how often you move them to new pasture). You will not want to construct a coop that you cannot easily access for these tasks.
Step Two: Buy the Materials
Now that you know what size hoop coop you need, you’ve decided on the number of cattle panels and the width that is right for you. Buy your materials, then let’s get started!
What size lumber should I buy?
For the base, you can use 2x4 or 2x6. I would not recommend 2x2 (though I have seen this done — yikes!). I used 2x4 to try and keep the weight of my hoop coop down, but I do wish I opted for the 2x6 instead. My coop is plenty sturdy, and should last for a long time. However, I think the 2x6 will stand the test of time better. If you have equipment, or muscle-y helpers, that can assist in moving your hoop coop to fresh grass, then opt for the 2x6. If you will not have help, then you may wish to opt for the 2x4 and keep your coop slightly lighter.
For the length, multiply 4 feet by your number of cattle panels. Overlapping the cattle panels slightly to account for the lumber length will increase the strength and security of your hoop coop. For example: 3 cattle panels x 50 inches = 150 inches / 12 = 12.5 feet length. If you instead buy 12 feet wood (3 cattle panels x 4 feet), you will have 6 extra inches of cattle panel that you can overlap between cattle panel 1 and 2, as well as between cattle panel 2 and 3.
Cattle panels can be purchased from Tractor Supply.
In addition to your cattle panels and your wood, you will also need:
3 inch screws
3.5 inch screws
1.75 inch screws
1/4 inch x 1 inch washers (1 inch wide washer with 1/4 inch opening)
1/2” opening hardware cloth. For a 12x10 hoop coop, I needed to purchase 100 feet length.
Hardware for the door (i.e. gate latch, sliding bolt, interior and exterior handle, etc.)
Drill for screws
Drill for pilot holes
1/8” drill bit (for pilot holes)
Hangar tape (this is a really thick metal strip found in the electrical section with holes in it. It is wrapped tightly in a spool.)
Sharp shears for cutting the hangar tape into strips.
Wire cutters (or use the sharp shears) for cutting hardware cloth.
Step Three: Build Your Frame
Drill pilot holes for 2 screws for a 2x4 or 3 pilot holes for a 2x7. Screw your boards together, taking care to ensure your frame is square (i.e. if you drill the 10 foot board into the 12 foot board, do it the same way on all 4 corners).